Archive for September, 2018

September 2018 Meeting Notice and NEWSLETTER

Seattle, Washington

Email us at: steve at ecamumclub dot org

MEETING OF THE ECA – THURSDAY September 13, 2018 at 7 PM at the Seattle Police Athletic Association Office (SPAA) site, small classroom at 11030 East Marginal Way South, Tukwila.

SEPTEMBER MEETING – Please, please, please, come to the meetings in September and October! These are very important meetings as we begin to prepare for our annual show at Volunteer Park Conservatory which will take place on November 2,3, & 4, More details at the meeting. This will be our second show at VPC. Many hands make light work – please try to help out if you are able.

Mark your calendars for the following events:
National Chrysanthemum Society Show in Reston, VA October 25-28
For more details, see:
Awards Banquet at Angelo’s in Burien November 15th, 2018.

PLANT CULTURE and SUPPLIES: – The September meeting will devote time to the care and feeding of the blooms as they develop. Place supply orders for specific items with Ronnie by Monday September 10th. With possible rain or showers consider your sheltering options for September as we move to the latter part of the growing season.

Draft Minutes from August 9th ECA Meeting:
Aug 9th, 2018 ECA meeting minutes

Present: Mark Ross, Steve & Sue Joyner, Erika Harris, Sydney Ogilvie, Alva Nishimura, Satoshi Nakayama

Cultural presentation: Reviewed the following topics.

Stake up the individual laterals you wish to save so that they won’t accidentally break off in wind and rain. You will need stakes between 3 and 5 feet. Fasten the laterals to the stakes with 4-6 inch twist-ems. Take care to place the stakes vertically straight in the pot. The main lateral joint is a weak spot on the plant. Placing stakes at an angle will pull at this joint and possibly split the plant apart. Vertical staking better supports the weak joint.

Taking the bud:
From late July to late August the terminal buds will start to appear on your laterals followed by a ring of smaller laterals just below the main bud. Once the terminal bud is the size of a small pea the ring of laterals must be removed. This process is called “taking the bud”. Allow the ring of buds develop to about 1/4 inch before removing them so you don’t damage the terminal bud. To remove these ring of laterals simply push them sideways with your thumb and they will easily break off. Do not pinch them off

Top Dressing:
Top dress pots in late July or early August and again when the buds show color (usually Sept 1 to 15). Spread 1 to 2 handfuls of your final potting mix on each pot. This gives the upper roots a better growing environment. This will also promote new growth from the root ball for next years’ plants.
When buds start to show color they should be brought under cover. At this point any moisture or dew will discolor or mildew the bloom

Lateral Control:
Continue to carry 1-2 more laterals than you want at bloom stage. Surplus laterals are removed later in the summer using the following guide: For #1 &#2 cultivars – carry 2 0r 3 laterals initially and cull to 1 or 2 in Aug.
For #3 cultivars – carry 5 laterals and cull in Sept or Oct For #4 & #5 cultivars – carry 4 to 5 laterals and cull in Sept. For earlies (13-15 and 23-25) carry 4 to 5 laterals and cull to 2 or 3 in Sept. For quills, spiders, spoons and singles follow the guide for #4 and #5 cultivars.

Fertilizing regimen:
Continue with mid-season fertilizing regimen (1 to 2 teaspoons of 20-10-20 fertilizer per gallon of water) until you start to see color on the bud. Watch leaves to gauge fertilizing. If leaves become hard or curled then you are overfeeding. If leaves are weak and light green then more fertilizer would help. If leaves are yellow try drying them out. If drying the plant doesn’t help then try feeding 1/2 teaspoon Epsom salts per plant or leaf feed with liquid iron. Do not over feed with liquid iron.

Pest Management:
Continue to review your pest management program every one to two weeks. You need to keep the plants free from black aphids, other bugs and fungal diseases especially before the blooms open. Use a systemic such as Marathon to control aphids. Monitor for other bugs such as leaf hoppers, earwigs, capsid bugs and leaf rollers. These bugs should be picked off the plants or they will invariably ruin the bud. A product called Seven when sprinkled around the roots can be effective in controlling earwigs.

Disease control:
Continue fungal control program through the summer and fall. Spray plants regularly with fungicide. Recommend Ortho Funginex or Diaconal.

Business Meeting minutes:

July Meeting minutes were approved by Mark Ross and Erika Harris
Treasure’s report presented by Sydney Ogilvie
Checking: $2864.94
Savings: $4063.51
Cash $283.74
Total: 7212.19

Sydney led a discussion of the use of the square to take credit card purchases at the plant sale. Due to the expense of setting one up for one day she recommends finding one to borrow for the plant sale.

Multiple bloom vases for late decorative, early English and vases of 3 show entries
Club would like to order 4 dozen green vases with approx. 5 inch rim. Need to contact Floral supply in Georgetown. I was unable to locate anything regarding the use of oasis in the show vases

Steve Joyner picked up late-season fertilizer at Stueber’s and brought it to the meeting.

Steve Joyner brought shingle stakes to the meeting

Steve Joyner to pick up mid-season fertilizer and bring it to next meeting

Dates to remember:
Show location Volunteer Park Conservatory
Show dates: Nov 2nd noon to 4 pm; Sat and Sunday Nov 3rd and 4th 10 am to 4 pm
Plant deliveries to back green house: Wednesday, October 31st and Thursday Nov 1st between
10 am and 3 pm
Show set up: Thursday Nov 1st between 4 pm and 6 pm
Judging: Friday, Nov 2nd between 9 am and noon
Show breakdown: Sunday, Nov 4th 4pm to 6 pm

Banquet date: Thursday Nov 15th at Angelo’s in Burien
6:30 no host bar, 7 pm dinner

Meeting adjourned at 8:30 pm

Additional information- please note
President, Kris Stephens, has resigned her position as Evergreen Chrysanthemum association president. Best wishes to Kris!
According to the ECA by-laws, Steve Joyner, ECA vice president will lead the meetings for the remainder of the year.

September 2018 Cultural Notes & To Do List

Editor’s Note:
You have slaved over these plants for more than half a year, now – please pay close attention to Don et al’s notes below for best results.

Once the buds have broken the membrane and some petal tips are showing it’s imperative to get the pots into or under some kind of shelter where they will remain through the final bloom is developed. The basic idea is to protect the blooms from rain or dew, provide adequate temperature control and ventilation. The watering and fertilization program must also be modified to assure proper bloom development, and lastly we need to continue with pest management and fungus control throughout the bloom development.
Sheltering of your plants is necessary throughout the bloom cycle. Shelters come in a variety of sizes, names and shapes including porches, Large overhanging eaves, garages, car ports, green houses or temporary wood /plastic structures. Basic requirements are Shelter from rain, dew, & Winds; adequate daytime light (though it can be shady), or light supplements, temperature control, and ventilation.
Maximum temperature should be kept below 80 Deg. If possible. Above that temp. the probability of bloom damage due to petal rot is high. If the shelter is exposed directly to the sun in early Sept. days the temperature within can skyrocket. Big fans can be used to increase ventilation and keep the temperature down. The fans also hopefully can bring in air from the shady side of the shelter to cool the overall area as well. Lining the inside of the shelter roof with old sheets or muslin will also reduce the heating and filter the sunlight. In general I like to keep the temperature between 50 deg and 70 deg. F for most of the finishing, but for the last few weeks of October, letting the nighttime temperatures dip into the 40s will probably accelerate your bloom development. If your temperatures dip into the 30s you will probably get pinking on the edges of some blooms. You can contact Don Stark or Chris Brookes to discuss your specific shelter questions or ideas.
Considerably less light will be required during the bloom cycle, but never the less it is necessary to provide supplemental light in most cases where you have sheltered the plants. If you are finishing in a green house or similar structure, It will probably be necessary to add light filtration in the ceilings as the opening blooms generally can not accept full sunlight through clear plastic or glass. You can purchase black screen like materials to put over your roofs to reduce the amount of sunlight. Alternatively, I have pinned old white sheets across the ceiling to filter the light. This works very well and at the same time the sheets tend to absorb the early morning dew that tends to collect in the cool mornings.
Getting back to light supplements, the most common and functional method is hanging 4’ or 8’ Fluorescent light fixtures in the ceiling. Plain white light lights work or if you choose you can buy
Gro- lights which are reputed to be better. Don’t buy “Grow-Lux” lights unless you are very rich as they are a specific brand name light and very costly. You can run the lights all day, 8-10 hours, during the day or all night if you so chose. I prefer just the time during daylight hours. Another clue that might help is an old adage –In general reflexing varieties like it light and cool while Incurves usually like it warmer and and less light” I use that adage to help me decide where I want to house each plant since I Use more than just 1 housing unit.
Bringing the plants into cover
Around Labor day, when the buds are starting to break the membrane, bring them in. Wash the pots thoroughly around the bottom to get rid of the crud moss and residue that have formed in your growing area. Clip off all excess roots that are hanging out the drain holes and pick off all old and damaged leaves, mostly around the bottom of the plant, that harbor pests and fungi.
Spray the plant with both a good fungicide and insecticide, taking care not to get any of the spray on the blooms. Watch for and destroy Earwigs, worms, caterpillars etc. They can wreck blooms when they get on or inside.
Top-dress the pots for one last time. Add about ½ to ¾ in. of your 9” mix or some compost to the pot surface and level it. Top-Dressing the plants helps finishing the plants now and also promotes new growth for next year’s cuttings. Now’s the time to cut off (not tear out) all new basil shoots that are developing, If your pot exhibited significant moss growth , add ½ tsp of Hydrated lime to the top dress mix to help sweeten the soil.
Optionally for colored blooms, not white or yellow, you may add ¼ tsp of Ferrous sulfate (Fe2 So4 ) to enhance the color. In particular The Athabasca needs this Fe2,So4 to show a significant ring of pink tips on its blossom. Pinks in general look more intense if we feed it.
Additionally, if you have not started feeding potash in your fertilizer formula (see Aug. Newsletter) then add ¼ to ½ tspn Sulphate of potash to the top mix to harden off the plant and keep the bloom petals from being too soft.
Staking and bud support:
Now’s time to start cutting back to your final selection of laterals, Stake the securely and start getting the support shingles attached to the stem and the support stake. Stake and tie up all selected laterals and add support shingles under the blooms. Keep moving the support shingle up under the bloom as the neck stretches. Use support shingle to straighten the neck and keep the bloom flat atop the stem
Finally, remove all side laterals as they appear on the selected stems below the bloom so that the bloom is all that is left.
Fertilizing and Watering:
For the bloom cycle, we reduce the fertilizer to ½ strength immediately after taking the bud and at the same time switch to a different fertilizer formulation that is higher in Potash content as discussed in the August news letter. Basically we mix ½ tsp of our basic 20-9-20+ fertilizer with i/2 tsp with ¼ tsp of Sulphate of Potash per gallon of water. After the petals begin to drop it is safe to increase the strength of this solution gradually to up to 2 times or less of this formula to promote blossom growth. Note: It’s easy to overfeed the plant at this time, and produce ragged, cocked, or deformed blooms; so increase the fertilizer sparingly.
Watering is different at this stage also. Water more sparing using about 1pint per watering and do not water when the temperature is over 75 deg. Water /fertilize from a bucket using a 1-pint jar or similar small container. Do not use a hose and scatter water everywhere on the shelter floor. Keep the finishing area dry and clean.