EVERGREEN CHRYSANTHEMUM ASSOCIATION
\nSeattle, Washington
\nwww.ecamumclub.org
\nNancy Halleen, Secretary<\/p>\n
HAPPY SUMMER GROWING SEASON!<\/p>\n
MEETING OF THE ECA \u2013 THURSDAY JULY 12, 2012 at 7 PM at the Seattle Police Athletic Association Office (SPAA) site at 11030 East Marginal Way South, Tukwila. <\/p>\n
2012 CLUB PICNIC\/GARDEN TOUR \u2013 The annual ECA garden tour and picnic is scheduled for Sunday, August 12th. We will tour the Highline Botanical Gardens located in the Highline Community Center on 24th and 128th Street in Sea-Tac. A pot-luck picnic will follow with Ronnie Elliot hosting. Please sign up at the July meeting for dishes to bring. We will discuss times, driving directions and any other questions concerning events of the day.<\/p>\n
NEWS OF OUR MEETING FACILITY According to Don Stark, \u201cWe had a field day on Saturday the 23rd to clean up the trash, weeds, etc. around the Seattle Police Athletic Association Pavilion. All went well and we were finished by noon. That\u2019s significant because at 12:05 pm it started to rain, but we were all in our cars and pulling away when the first drop fell. Thanks to all who helped: Randal Tanabe who brought his landscape maintenance truck full of good tools, John Harden, Mike Kubo, Ron Elliott, Mark Ross and Don Stark.\u201d <\/p>\n
SUPPLIES \u2013 Club supplies will be available at the July meeting so please place supply orders early (at least two or three days prior to meeting) with Mark Ross. There are 4 bags of M&R ($6\/bag) and 1 bag of coarse pumice ($3.50) left unsold from last month\u2019s big push on supplies. We will also have Marathon (priced as marked), midseason fertilizer (20-9-20+), and possibly stakes.<\/p>\n
Hope to see you at the July Meeting!<\/p>\n
As a reminder, please send any email address or postal address changes to Nancy Halleen. To receive future monthly notices by email only rather than US mail, please send an email to Nancy.<\/p>\n
JULY TO DO LIST \u2013 Revised July 2005 by Don Stark and Bob Walker<\/p>\n
Staking and Lateral Control<\/p>\n
\u2022\tSurplus laterals should have been removed by now. At this stage of the growing cycle carry one more lateral than planned to carry at the bloom stage for large and medium exhibition (#1 and #2). For incurves, 4\u2019s, and 5\u2019s, carry up to five laterals. This provides extras in the event of bug damage or accidents. Within 3 – 4 weeks after the buds are formed, cut down to the final lateral count.
\n\u2022\tSurplus laterals are culled using the following guide noting that the incurves (#3) do not get the final cull until September.
\n\u2022\tFor #1 and #2 cultivars, carry 2 or 3 laterals, cull to 1 or 2.
\n\u2022\tFor #3 cultivars, carry up to 5 laterals, cull to 3 in Sept.
\n\u2022\tFor #4 and #5 cultivars, carry up to 5 laterals, cull to 3-4.
\n\u2022\tFor earlies (#13-15 and #23-25), observe last number (Example for #13 and #23, use the #3 guide and for #14, #15, #24, or #25 use #4 and #5 guide).
\n\u2022\tFor the spiders, quills, and spoons (per mr), follow the guide for the #4 and #5.
\n\u2022\tContinue disbudding the remaining laterals to channel growth to the main lateral.<\/p>\n
All present laterals saved should now be individually staked. Use stakes ripped from nominal one- inch lumber, which are \u00bd inch wide (5\/8\u201d x \u00bd\u201d). These stakes look better and do not rot if you paint or stain them green. Stake length ranges from 3-6 feet, with the majority 4 feet. Another much more costly alternative is to purchase the green fiberglass stakes also available in 3-6 foot length at local stores.
\n Finally, heavy (Big) 4 FT. and 5 Ft. bamboo stakes can be used effectively. <\/p>\n
\u2022\tFasten the laterals to the stakes with \u201ctwist\u2019ems\u201d, 2-4 per lateral. If the laterals are not staked or otherwise supported, they break off with rain or breeze and also grow crooked, making the resulting bloom difficult or impossible to enter in shows.<\/p>\n
Taking the buds
\n\u2022\tMost buds are formed from late July to the end of August
\n\u2022\tWatch for the buds to form and as soon as the bud is the size of a pea start removing the ring of little side buds that form just below and around the main bud. This is called \u201cTaking the Bud\u201d which in reality is leaving the main bud and removing all the next layer of buds. A light push sidewise with the thumb will break away the small buds you are removing.
\n\u2022\tKeep those side laterals removed as they reform on the main stem after taking the bud
\n\u2022 Get strips of wood 16-18 inches long and 3\/8\u201d wide made from shingles, shakes, or \u00bc\u201d plywood. Stain them green. These are used to support each bloom and are secured with two \u201ctwist\u2019ems\u201d. Place them on the bud\/lateral as the bud over-grows the stakes to protect the lateral and bud, to keep the lateral growing straight, to support the bloom, and keep the bud horizontal. A \u201ccocked\u201d bloom will never win a blue ribbon.<\/p>\n
Feeding & Top-Dressing
\n\u2022\tKeep feeding! Keep feeding! The club sells Peters 20-10-20 and Technigrow 20-9-20+ (The plus is for added sulfur for greening) water-soluble fertilizer at our meetings. Either of these is an excellent mid season fertilizer. Miracle Grow can be used but the other feeding options are better and preferable.
\n\u2022\tStandard dosage for all is 1 tsp per Gal. Of water, fed once per week. If you feed with every watering, you may cut the dosage in half. It is common to increase the dosage (up to double the rate) for some blooms during July and August. Heavy feeders include Gigantics, Jessies, Connies, Seychelles and Ralph Lambert. On the other side, most reds, most purples and most incurves require a lighter feeding level such as 2\/3 the standard dosage, or in the case of incurves, grow lots of laterals to absorb the heavier feeding.
\n\u2022\tSome growers like to add a little granular rose fertilizer such as Agro 4-10-8. However keep in mind that it is easy to overfeed so be prudent. Watch and feel the leaves. They\u2019ll tell you when you are over feeding and feeding should be continued right up to the bud formation to get that added surge of nitrogen into the bud. Then cut feed in half or discontinued for 1-2 weeks after the bud has formed. Then resume feeding at a reduced rate, Some switch to a high Potash fertilizer (15-11-29). Others continue with the mid season fertilizer and add some murate of potash to harden off the plants.
\n\u2022\tSome plants may tend to be yellowish instead of green (Jessie HabgoodsDukes, Lundies and Connies for instance). If you have yellow plants first try drying them out with less water. If unsuccessful feed \u00bd to 1 tsp Epsom salts per plant. Leaf feeding with liquid iron such as Greenall or Sequesterine also helps green up the foliage. Follow product directions, do not over feed the iron.
\n\u2022\tWater thoroughly when you water but don\u2019t water until the plant needs watering. Jessies and Dukes generally require less water than most so don\u2019t water them just because your passing by with the hose. On the other side, the Gigantics and Pat Brophy need more frequent watering. Above all, don\u2019t over water. You can let the plants flag a little before rewatering.<\/p>\n
Top Dressing
\n\tTop dress the pots in late July to early August, and again when the buds show color (around Sept 1-15) Spread 1-2 handful of your final potting mix or the soil less mix each time. This gives the roots a better growing environment.<\/p>\n
Pest Management
\n\u2022\tContinue to review your pest management program every two weeks. Have plants free of aphids and fungus before the blooms are set to open. Aphids in blooms are unsightly and can be cause for disqualification at shows.
\n\u2022\tMarathon Systemic Insecticide is applied once per growing season to each pot at a rate of \u00bd teaspoon per pot to control aphids (particularly black aphids). A second application can be used if needed. Some other bugs such as leafhoppers and ear wigs need to be picked off the plants or they will ruin the bud\/bloom.
\n\u2022\tSpray every two weeks with a fungicide or an insecticide\/fungicide, mostly on the older bottom leaves. Pick off damaged and dead leaves to reduce the sources of fungus.
\n\u2022\tFor fungicide, Ortho Funginex or Funginil work well but are hard to find as they have been pulled from the wholesale market.
\n\u2022\tA very good replacement fungicide is the Ferti.lome broad spectrum liquid fungicide. It contains Daconil. Also the Shultz Garden safe fungicide should work well as it is essentially the same as the Ferti.lome.
\n\u2022\tInsecticides that are effective historically for black aphids include Liquid Diazinon and Nicotine Sulphate (Black Leaf 40), if available. Malathion can be sprayed for green aphids; however, it is not effective on black aphids.<\/p>\n
AUGUST TO DO LIST \u2013 Revised July 2005 by Don Stark and Bob Walker<\/p>\n
August is a major growing month. Continue with the watering, feeding, and pest control programs noted in the July newsletter. l The appearance of bud color, especially for the early cultivars, signals a shift to the late season feeding program. Flush the pots at least once during the month to reduce the accumulation of fertilizer salts in the pot. Disbudding is the primary cultural activity for the first half of August. Stake and reduce the number of laterals as the buds appear and are secured. Experience suggests there is no way to get too much support for laterals and blooms. Top-dress the plants with fresh potting mix to assure maximum plant growth now and new shoots for next season.<\/p>\n
1.\tStaking and Lateral Control<\/p>\n
\u2022\tSurplus laterals are removed as the buds are firmly established for all varieties with the exception of incurves (classes 3, 13, and 23) and some intermediate types (classes 5, 15, and 25), which are culled in early September. With 2 \u00bd months until the ECA show, it may be conservative to wait a few more weeks for the final reduction in the event of bug damage, wind, or accidents.
\n\u2022\tReduce the number of laterals to the final count as listed below. For early varieties follow last number, ex. #14 and #24 use #4.
\n\u2022\tFor #1 and #2 cultivars, carry 1 or 2 laterals.
\n\u2022\tFor #3 cultivars, carry up to 5 laterals, cull to 3 in Sept.
\n\u2022\tFor #4 cultivars, carry 2 or 3 laterals.
\n\u2022\tFor #5 cultivars, carry 2 to 5 laterals.<\/p>\n
\u2022\tAll laterals should be individually staked Fasten the laterals with \u201ctwist\u2019ems\u201d. If the laterals are not staked or otherwise supported, they break off with rain or breeze and also grow crooked, making the resulting bloom difficult or impossible to enter in shows.<\/p>\n
2.\tBlooms and Bloom Support <\/p>\n
\u2022\tWatch for buds and secure them as they appear. Most buds appear by August 15. Look for \u201crabbit-ear\u201d leaves below the bud and laterals forming at leaf axils. As the bud reaches about \u00bc inch, or the size of a small pea, it should be secured by removing the ring of side buds and the other side shoots that may appear in the leaf axils below. Keep those new laterals removed. This grooming of the selected laterals will require regular and sometimes daily attention.
\n\u2022\tPrepare strips of wood 16-18 inches long and 3\/8\u201d wide made from shingles, shakes, or \u00bc\u201d plywood. Stain them green preferably. These are used to support each bloom and are secured with two \u201ctwist\u2019ems\u201d. Place them on the bud\/lateral as the bud over-grows the stakes to protect the lateral and bud, to keep the lateral growing straight, to support the bloom, and keep the bud horizontal. A \u201ccocked\u201d bloom will never win a blue ribbon.<\/p>\n
3.\tFeeding & Top-Dressing <\/p>\n
\u2022\tTop-dress the pots in early August and again when the buds show color, about September 1-15. Put about 1 handful of compost or Soil less mix on the surface of the pot and level it each time you top-dress.
\n\u2022\tWater thoroughly when you water and then almost dry out the plant before watering again. If plants are yellow, first try drying them out. If drying out fails, feed \u00bd teaspoon Epsom salts per plant or carefully use of one of the liquid iron solutions.
\n\u2022\tContinue fertilizing until buds appear with the mid season fertilizer program as described in the July to-do list.
\n\u2022\t Flush the pots once per month to prevent fertilizer salts build-up.
\n\u2022\tThe appearance of the bud especially for the early cultivars, also signals a shift to the late season feeding program. When the buds appear, stop or reduce feeding \u00bd strength for 1-2 weeks and water the plants more sparingly. At this stage it\u2019s time to change the feeding program to a late season fertilizer. Either switch to a high potash fertilizer (15-11-29) or continue with the 20-10-20\/20-9-20+ fertilizer and add approximately15 % by volume of Murate of Potash. In either case continue to fertilize at \u00bd to 2\/3tsp per gal of water.<\/p>\n
4.\tPest Management and Housing<\/p>\n
\u2022\tReview your pest management program every two weeks and correct as necessary. Have your plants free of aphids and fungus before the blooms are set to open. Aphids in blooms are cause for disqualification at shows.
\n\u2022\tSpray every two weeks with a fungicide or an insecticide\/fungicide if not using Marathon as an insecticide.
\n\u2022\tWatch for and destroy earwigs. They wreck blooms when they get inside.<\/p>\n
\u2022\tFinally, anticipate your housing needs and start preparations to get your show flowers under cover by the first or second week of September.<\/p>\n
Don Stark, 4 July 2005<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
EVERGREEN CHRYSANTHEMUM ASSOCIATION Seattle, Washington www.ecamumclub.org Nancy Halleen, Secretary HAPPY SUMMER GROWING SEASON! MEETING OF THE ECA \u2013 THURSDAY JULY 12, 2012 at 7 PM at the Seattle Police Athletic Association Office (SPAA) site at 11030 East Marginal Way South, … Continue reading